Malibu Surf (VERY small swell)

Posted on Updated on

Malibu Beach in PanamaThe swell forecast predicted a small, long-period swell so we headed towards the Pacific side of Panama early in the morning (not early enough according to Peter), more specifically towards the bay area nearby Coronado.

Dissapointingly, the sunrise caught us in the road only to find out the nice natural landscapes on the way to the beach were plagued with politik publicity for the upcoming 2009 Panamanian elections. It was almost disgusting to see practically everywhere we looked, the faces of the same thieves that have been f*&%ing up and selling our country throughout our past, present and future. I do not want to leave Panama without documenting everything what I see, so I started taking short videos of all the stupid banners along the road.

So when we got to Malibu, the weather was perfect with a subtle off-shore wind blowing and very small but fun waves to surf (2-3 ft). Off we went. We tried to surf the front and eventually some nice left-sided waves would pop up, however, since the river changed its directions, the nice left wave closes up rather quickly, making it a quick ride indeed.

After a some time, the long “right” wave started popping out as well. The tide was getting lower and lower. Some gringos were riding it, and even though the size was pretty small, these guys were having fairly long rides… So Peter decided to swim all the way there, and I well, being my age and not having exercised properly for about 6 months already, I chose to walk.

The gringos were rocking the waves, there were two guys from California, a presumably zonian dude and and old guy who was learning how to surf. They caught almost all the nicer waves. When I finally made it into the group, I tried catching probably what was going to be my best wave of the day, but one of the californians cut me off. He later apologized.

The Campana Experince

Steep Peaks and dense forest at Campana MountainAs the tide started to grow again (got high?), the swell almost died completely so we decided to abandon the beach and come back to the city. I kept on filming all the politic banners (did I mention I am going to make a video?) and unexpectedly, Peter decided to drive into Campana (a mountain between the Bay beaches and Panama City). Of course I did not oppose to this decision since I do not recall driving through those parts of Panama before. The sceneries were populated with steep rocky peaks with thick forest reminded me somewhat of Machu Picchu.

We drove by and took some nice shots and clips. I passed out on the way back but woke up for some nice empanadas at Queso Chela =)

Some other pictures

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s