waves

Mariato – good swell (at a certain point in the morning)

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Mariato Front BreakHere I am again, getting to Juanes’ this time at 2 a.m. on a Sunday, when the rest of the normal Panamanians get drunk and party in the clubs of Calle Uruguay. I made it early again!
This time our third crew member was Yahan who co-owns the local electronic-music bar “Puré” (according to Juanes). We filled the tank up to the beats of “Eso sí da dolor” (the gas price) by Kafu Banton, Read the rest of this entry »

Isla Grande – crappy swell but lots of random fun…

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The ride back

I arrived unusually early to Juanes house to go surfing to Isla Grande for the day. I got there around 3:30 a.m., mounted the surfboards on the racks and waited for the rest of the crew. Being at the heart of Calle Urugay (a Panamanian epicenter for partying), we could see all the people all dressed up but screwed up by alcohol =). Read the rest of this entry »

Malibu Surf (VERY small swell)

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Malibu Beach in PanamaThe swell forecast predicted a small, long-period swell so we headed towards the Pacific side of Panama early in the morning (not early enough according to Peter), more specifically towards the bay area nearby Coronado.

Dissapointingly, the sunrise caught us in the road only to find out the nice natural landscapes on the way to the beach were plagued with politik publicity for the upcoming 2009 Panamanian elections. It was almost disgusting to see Read the rest of this entry »